How To Wash Your Dog

Even if you have got the most easy to care dog in the world, she will still need some attention to be paid to her appearance every once in a while – so it’s worth spending a bit of time learning the best techniques for easy, stress free grooming. 

WHY SHOULD I BOTHER GROOMING MY DOG?

Ever since this rise in the estimation of our beloved pooches became widespread, grooming has been increasingly recognized as an important facet of your dog’s regular health care. It ensures that any skincare problems are minimized, and assists you in monitoring your dog’s overall condition  because if you groom on a regular basis, you cannot help but notice the presence of any unusual lumps or bumps. This preventative action has saved many a canine life. Our dogs are unable to tell us where it hurts, but taking just a little bit of time every so often to check them over ourselves can save a lot of grief in the long run. The trick is getting your dog to tolerate and even enjoy the process.

THE FIRST STEP IN THE GROOMING PROCESS

Something that many owners lack experience in is how to wash their dogs. Dry grooming (brushing and ‘buffing’ the coat) seems to present little problem for most people; the rot tends to set in when water is introduced to the mix. Most dogs have a strong dislike of being bathed, and in many cases will become utterly panic stricken when the tub comes out. This article is going to deal with the basics of how to wash your dog  that it will keep both of you relaxed and happy. 

First of all, the absolute most important thing you can do is to accustom your dog to the grooming process. Now, starting this in puppyhood is the ideal way to handle the situation, but of course not all of us have this luxury. If you have got an adult dog, you probably need to move a little slower, but you should still start getting her used to being touched and handled all over as soon as you can.

As your puppy or dog gets used to the sensation of being rubbed and handled, she will slowly come to enjoy it. Dogs are social creatures by instinct, and physical affection and contact is a big part of their lives – it should not take long before she begins to trust you, and allows herself to get some pleasure out of your touch.

All you have to do is start rubbing her slowly all over. Fondle her ears, touch her cheeks and neck, rub her back and belly, pick up her paws and give each one a gentle squeeze (treating and praising her whenever she lets you do this, since paw touching is generally a pretty big deal for most dogs). If she has a tail, rub it between your fingers; get her to roll over on her back so you can rub and stroke her belly and hocks.

This might not seem like such a big deal, but it’s actually a really important part of the grooming process: the more your dog enjoys it, the less stressful the whole event will be for both of you, and so the more often you are more likely to groom her which in turn increases the health benefits for her. 

HOW TO WASH YOUR DOG

Bathing always comes before dry grooming, since it makes brushing and trimming a lot easier as well as a lot more effective. You will need some basic tools: a tub, a non slip mat, a plastic jug, some warm water, a small sponge, and some canine shampoo (not human shampoo: the pH is all wrong for dogs, and will give her dry and flaky skin.)

Stand her in the tub, on the non slip mat. If she’s a large or unruly dog, you may want to wash her outside to minimize mess either that, or you can restrain her by tying one end of a light nylon leash to her collar, and the other end to the faucet. 

Pour jugs of warm water all over her until she is good and wet. This breaks down the grease in her fur, and ensures a thorough shampooing. Mix a little shampoo with another jug of warm water, and rub it thoroughly into your dog’s fur. Start off with her back and rub it into a good lather. Now you can move on to her head and face. Be very careful here – dogs’ eyes are sensitive too, and if you get any water in her ears, she might  get an ear infection. You can plug her ears with a small twist of cotton wool to help stop this from happening, if you like. Remember to clean under her tail before you wash her off, dip the sponge into the shampoo mixture to do this properly.

Now it’s time to rinse: using the jug and some clean, warm, shampoo free water, carefully tip it all over her and use your fingers to help disperse the lather from her coat. Rinse her off thoroughly at least twice, since any residue that remains will irritate her skin.

Then you will need to dry her off: if she’s got short fur, you can use a towel, for dogs with longer fur, give her a gentle toweling off first, and then use a hair dryer to get rid of the last dampness. Be certain that it is set on low heat, and hold it far away from your dog’s fur to prevent burning either the skin or the fur.

KEEP YOURSELF CALM

Remember that most dogs have an inherent dislike of being bathed, which can cause anxiety and even outright panic. Your dog takes a lot of her emotional cues from you, so make sure you act like a good role model for the occasion. Reassure your dog frequently, keeping your voice well modulated, low, and even; keep your movements slow and deliberate; praise her lavishly for good behavior, and give her a couple of treats throughout the process to make it more enjoyable for her. The more she enjoys the process, the easier it will be for you!

Grooming your dog is just one tiny aspect of maintaining overall health and happiness. For a complete, encyclopedic survival guide to all aspects of dog health, from preventative care to choosing a vet to doggie First Aid, you should take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.

Additional resources:

Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook 

The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook: The Definitive Guide to Keeping Your Pet Happy, Healthy & Active Through Every Stage of Life

Dogs Etiquette

I can still remember my first the first time I got bitten by a dog. I was visiting my grandfather at his place, upon coming out of the car I saw this cute brown dog with white patches over his eyes getting up and looking at me. As I approached him, I realized that he was standing only on three legs, one of his front legs was amputated. I felt sorry for him, so I stretched out my hand attempting to give him a pat on his head and that was when he turn vicious and bite my hand. Well I never really understand why he attacked me when I meant him no harm until years later when Belle, my first dog, came along. I learnt from the many books I read that everything I was doing that day, right from the moment I stepped out of the car was wrong!

Dogs and human communicates differently and more often then not, we humans have the tendency to impose our interpretations and ideas onto our beloved dogs. And the result of that is never a happy one. It is important to understand and respect our dogs, regardless of their names and how we may see them (son, daughter or baby). They are first and foremost a dog, so the best way to respect and love them is to let them be the dog that nature have wired them to be. So it is important for us to learn and understand their language and the way they communicate so that we do not have a communication break down!

First and foremost, you must be able to project a calm aura around you. Have the end state you want to achieve in your mind. With this, you will be able to project a more positive energy towards the dog.

Never ever make frontal approach to a dog that you are meeting for the first time. As a frontal approach towards them into their personal space would make most dogs uncomfortable and anxious and therefore more prone to attack. Always approach them with your sides towards them, so that they feel less threaten.

Never look or stare into their eyes because in the dog world, a direct stare is deemed as an adversarial display which often leads to aggression if not stop in time. Look at their mouth, chest or paw instead as you approach them.

Do not make any sudden movements or loud noise as this might create excitement or tension which can result in an attack. The best way is always to move near to them, remain at your position and ignore them. This would arouse their curiosity. Once their curiosity is arouse it will move towards you, allow the dog to sniff you while remaining calm. Once he is satisfy and ascertain that you are not a threat, you will be able to tell from his body language that he has accepted you.

Lastly never pet a dog that you are meeting for the first time on his head. Reach out for the chin, neck, chest or the side instead.

Of course do not forget about our human etiquette of asking the owner for permission before approaching their dog or petting them. And common sense will tell you not to touch a dog on the part of his body where he is experiencing discomfort such as a wound.

Additional resources:
Dog Behavior: An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet
The Cautious Canine
Barking: The Sound of a Language (Dogwise Training Manual)
On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals
Rover, Get off Her Leg!: Pet Etiquette for the Dog Who Pees on Your Rug, Steals the Pot Roast and Poops in Improper Places

Massage for your poochies

Soon after I have Belle, my first dog, I found myself visiting the pet park on every weekends and while I was there I made a couple of new friends who shared a great deal of information. One of the things I learn from the other pet loves there was the power of giving a massage to my dog. Similar to how a massage makes us feel good by releasing tight muscles and helping us find our calm center, the same applies to our dogs as well.

Some of the benefits of massage includes:
- stress relief
- soothing and comforting
- assist healing process by triggering body natural ability to heal itself from injury, strain and fatigue
- helps detect swelling, stiffness, pain and tension
- helps the body to function more effectively
- improves our dog's agility
- helps increase the bonding between our dogs and us

There is a whole big field dedicated to massaging for dogs, books and information are easily available. I am not an expert in this field so I will be sharing the basics which I have learnt from my fellow dog lovers and found to be useful.

1. Get your dog to lie down on a soft but firm mat.
2. Begin with several long and slow stroke starting from head all the way down to the tail.
3. Once she is relax and calm, you may start scratching from behind the ears, under chin, slowly over the nose, between the eyes, around the eyes and to the top of her head.
4. Using three fingers, move slowly over the neck, shoulders, and chest in small, circular patterns, gently pinching folds of any loose skin in these areas.
5. Lightly squeeze down the length of each leg.
6. Placing three fingers on each side of the leg and softly rub opposite directions several times.
7. Place your thumb and index finger on each side of the spine and move down lightly toward the base of the tail, and then the outside of each thigh.
8. Finish with a few long and slow stroke from head to tail.

If your dog is feeling uncomfortable with having his feet handled, give each foot a couple of soft squeezes. While massaging your dog, it is also a good time to feel around and have a visual check on your dog for any abnormalities. It is important to remember to keep your touch light and gentle at all times.

Recommended resources:
The Healing Touch for Dogs: The Proven Massage Program for Dogs, Revised Edition
Canine Massage: A Practical Guide
The Healthy Way to Stretch Your Dog: A Physical Therapy Approach (Dogwise Manual)
The Dog Lover's Guide to Massage: What Your Dog Wants You to Know

All you need to know about fleas

External parasites are common to every dogs. A parasite is an organism that lives off the resources your dog has to offer: namely, fresh blood and a warm place to stay.

There are a wide range of parasites that affect dogs and the common ones are:

- Fleas
- Ticks
- Mites
- Lice

All of these parasites cause adverse reactions in your dog: typically, itching and inflamed skin, a dull coat, and bald spots. In advanced cases, your dog may develop anemia (blood loss) and become weaken, especially if she is very young, very old, or suffering from other conditions.

In addition to this, many parasites convey secondary and internal parasites to your dog – for example, fleas usually carry the common tapeworm, which causes constipation and flatulence, and ticks can cause a variety of much more serious problems like Lyme’s disease and paralysis.

So how do we detect and get rid of these parasite?

A CLOSER LOOK AT FLEAS

Fleas are without question the number one most common external parasite affecting dogs. They’re small, jumping insects that are light brown in color, although humans generally can’t see them as they move much too fast for our naked eyes. Thet live off your dog’s blood. The life cycle of a flea moves very rapidly from stage infancy to adult, and therefore capable of multiplying rapidly. An adult flea typically lays hundreds of eggs per day. Each egg will then become an adult flea, which lay hundreds more eggs of its own. One flea becomes a major problem very quickly! 

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR DOG HAS FLEAS

The symptoms of a flea infestation are unmistakable. A dog with a flea infestation will scratch almost constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to favor: the ears, the base of the tail, the belly, and the stifle which is the webbing of soft skin between the thigh and the abdomen.

It is actually the saliva of the flea that causes the irritation, not the bite itself, and some dogs have a genuine allergy to this saliva. Dogs with allergies suffer much more significant negative reactions to a flea infestation, and usually develop “hot spots”. These hot spots are areas of sore, inflamed, flaking, bleeding, and infected skin, caused by the flea saliva and your dog’s own reaction to it. Bald patches will sometimes develop too, from repeated scratching and ongoing inflammation.

If you suspect that your dog has fleas, you can confirm your suspicions by taking a closer look at his skin: you probably won’t be able to see the fleas themselves, but you should be able to see what looks like ground pepper, a thin sprinkling of fine black grains on his skin, which is the flea poop. If you have a flea comb, try wiping it on a paper towel after combing your dog:. If red blotches show up on the towel, you know that your dog has fleas as flea poop shows up red on a white backgrounds. 

TREATMENT FOR FLEAS

Because fleas only spend a small amount of time actually on your dog, and the rest of their time leaping through your house laying eggs and feeding on human blood, it’s not enough to just treat the dog: you also have to target his bedding, the entire house, all human bedding, and the yard. Even if it’s cold outside, you’re not necessarily off the hook: cold weather doesn’t kill flea eggs, it just puts them into a state of hibernation. The eggs will hatch as soon as it gets warm enough outside.

You will need a broad spectrum treatment which kills not only the adult fleas, but also any developing fleas, and the eggs.

PREVENTION IS THE BEST

Prevention is definitely the best cure – you should keep your dog’s flea treatments up to date with the use of a calendar, and use a treatment that’s prescribed by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments aren’t recommended, since different dogs require different strengths depending on their size, age, and activity levels. A particular benefit of prescribed flea treatment is that most are also designed to prevent other parasites from affecting your dog.

FOR AN EXISTING INFESTATION

If your dog already has fleas, you have two options:

- You can ‘bomb’ your house and yard with a flea-pesticide. These come as foggers, which coat each room, and the yard, in a fine mist of pesticide and sprays which are applied manually to each surface throughout the house and yard. They are very effective in killing fleas and eggs, however the drawback is they are highly toxic to humans, dogs, and the environment. If you have anyone in the house with allergies or a health condition you might want to think again.

- A more health friendly alternative is to target the dog with a topical anti- lea solution prescribed by the vet such as Advantage or Revolution, and to rigorously clean the house on a regular basis until the flea problem has gone. This means vacuuming each room thoroughly each day. Change the vacuum bag to remove any fleas that get sucked up and wash all human and dog bedding in hot water as often as you can, once every day or every two days is recommended. You will be able to tell when the problem is gone because your dog won’t be scratching, and his coat will be clear of flea dirt when you inspect it. 

WHAT NOT TO DO ABOUT FLEAS

- Don’t use multiple products on your dog, it’ll make him sick, since you’ll be overloading his system with toxins.

- Don’t forget to treat all the animals in the house at the same time: cat and dog fleas are interchangeable, and if one animal has fleas, they all will have them, even if some are not displaying the symptoms.

- Flea collars are no longer recommended as a safe option for flea prevention, since the collars are highly toxic as vets have realized that placing a toxic material directly against your pet’s skin for long periods of time  is detrimental to your dog’s health. 

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PARASITES AND THEIR TREATMENT...

Fleas are just one of the many, many types of parasites that affect your dog. To find out more about the complete prevention and treatment of all types of parasites, both internal and external, as well as a comprehensive guide to all aspects of dog health, take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health. This book is an invaluable resource for the responsible dog owner, and will help you to ensure that your dog remains happy and healthy – just the way you want him to be!

Recommended reads:
Parasites (Natural Pet Care Pocket Series)
Guide to Skin and Haircoat Problems in Dogs
Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook

Nail Clipping

Initially when I learn about the importance of trimming my dog's nails I was rather hesitant as I kept thinking and was worried that I might accidentally cut her nails and end up injuring her. Unknown to many of us, dogs like many other animals can sense our emotions via the energy or aura that we project. By worrying that I might cut her nails, I was actually projecting a negative energy to my dog, and naturally she was reluctant to stay put and let me trim her nails which increases the anxiety that I was already feeling, and the whole cycle of me sending negative energy to her and her reacting negatively to me making me feel even worse repeated. I am sure many of the dog owners have experienced similar situation and to save all the hassle, decides to pay the groomer to get it done for them.

Trimming our paw friends' nails is not only part of the grooming process, it is also important for their health. Our dog's health will be growing continuously throughout his entire life and keep it trimmed can significantly reduce lots of hassle that we might otherwise have to go through. The first sign of overgrown nails, is the clicking sound you hear when your dog is walking on carpeted ground.

Untrimmed nails can cause
1. nails to bleed profusely due to nails splitting.
2. your dog to walk in an awkward way or in more serious case to give up walking totally due to aches on the paws.
3. nail to curl inwards under the soft pad of the paw, digging in and causing pain and possible infection.

Nail trimming is a quick and easy process, much like cutting your own nails. The first thing to take note is, nail trimming is all about trimming away the excess portion of the nail and not removing the whole nail. The next thing to take note is your mindset, always have the outcome you want in your mind before you approach your dog, in this way you will be able to project your energy and intention to her giving her confidence in you and allowing her to be in a calm state.

The trick to doing it right is to be able to differentiate the excess portion from the part with blood vessels. For myself I follow the simple steps below to get it done in a couple of minutes.
1. Always place your tools (clipper, file etc) near you first.
2. I prefer sitting on the floor with my dog. I then hold her paw with my thumb under her pad and push it down/back (depends on how you hold) to have the nails extended out.
3. Next locate the pink portion (also known as quick) on the nail. This is the part of the nail that is running with vessels which you won't want to cut.
4. Using a clipper, make several small snips from the edge of the nail. Gradually trim inwards until you spot a black or pink dot at the center of the nail when looking at eye level. This is where the quick begins and we must refrain from cutting any further.
5. Remember to trim the dewclaw as well. It is located a few centimeters up above the paw on the inner side.
6. If this is your first time and you are unsure, another alternative is to make a small snipe at the nail edge and then use a file to file inwards. A time taking method but for first timer it helps to build confidence :)
7. Once done, its time to praise her for displaying such wonderful behavior!

Should you accidentally cut into the quick, just clean the blood away and with a clean cloth press against the wound and the bleeding should stop in about 15 minutes.

Once you have done it once, you will be more confident on the next time round and very soon both you and your paw friend will enjoy nail clipping session just like my and my dogs :)

Body language

Ever seen a dog that seems docile and tame with its tail wagging, but the moment you walk within its reach it jumps and attack you? A lot of people have the misconception that when a dog wags its tail, it is being friendly and asking for affection. I was also one of the people until I had my first dog and after a lot of reading did I realized that it is not always the case. Besides its tail, there are many other signs that we can look out for to determine whether a dog is ready to attack, friendly or even fearful.

Below is a general list of behavior that I have come up with based on my observations and knowledge acquired from books. It may differ slight across the various breeds.

Relax
1. Standing or lying down
2. Either wagging its tail or lying naturally on the ground
3. Ear is relax
4. Either panting lightly or mouth closed
5. Eyes not staring at anything

Ready to attack
1. Standing tall and rigid
2. Tail rigidly up or out behind
3. Pricked up ears
4. Teeth baring
5. Look out for the line of hair that starts at the base of the neck to shoulders, it should be standing
6. Intense look, staring

Fear
1. Body lower down
2. Tail tuck between hind legs
3. Ears down
4. Might urine if very intense

Verbal ques
High pitch barking - excitement, especially when a family member returns
Low pitch barking - warning of possible threat, such as when the postman visits
Whining - complaining and wants attention
Growl - stay back

Recommended reads:
Canine Body Language: A Photographic Guide Interpreting the Native Language of the Domestic Dog
Barking: The Sound of a Language (Dogwise Training Manual)
How To Speak Dog: Mastering the Art of Dog-Human Communication

Excessive Chewing

The act of chewing seems to be a matter of individual preference among dogs: some have an innate desire to chew as a pleasurable activity in itself, and some seem to have no need to chew whatsoever unless they’re driven to it out of sheer boredom.

The main reasons why dogs chew:

- Most dogs have a natural desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)

- Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the dog equivalent of comfort food.

- Underexercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

- Growing puppies need to chew much like a human baby likes to chew when they are teething. Growing puppies chew because it helps to remove their 'puppy teeth' and allow a new set that is stronger and bigger to be grown.

So do we need to prevent chewing? Well the answer is no, but we have to limit and train our dog to know what can be chewed and what cannot be.

Dogs are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff – you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.

1. Take control of the situation: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there’s still no reason to test her self-control.

Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don’t want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something’s out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don’t leave snacks on low tables, put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

2. Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jawful of a forbidden substance such as socks or a running shoe  the more readily she’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it’s a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means confining her in a dog-proofed area until you’re confident of her understanding of the house rules.

3. Don’t set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t offer your dog cast off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t possibly expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

4. Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can hardly blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard but that’s boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either. She can’t learn what you expect of her if she’s spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.

6. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative  as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble.

Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s likely to be at least one incident where a cherished item is damaged by her curiosity.

Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s completely reliable and even then, if she’s left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to occupy her time and jaws with. Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn faster – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she’s got the hang of the chewing rules!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior such as chewing, check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.

Recommended reads:
Behavior Problems in Dogs
The New Better Behavior in Dogs: A Guide to Solving All Your Dog Problems
Outwitting Dogs: Revolutionary Techniques For Dog Training That Work!